| Presentation Tips & Tricks - Advanced Float 'n Fly Tactics |
| Written by Ken Duke | |||||||||
Page 5 of 7 GETTING DEEPER Coan’s 1-inch weighted float gets 90 percent of the duty when he and Headrick fish the float and fly. With rods measuring between 8 and 10 feet in length, they can manage leaders up to 13 or 14 feet with a fixed float. But what do you do when bass suspend deeper than that? How do you fish the float and fly 16 or even 20 feet deep? Until last year, you didn’t. That’s when Coan began experimenting with a slipbobber. Conventional slipbobbers wouldn’t work – when an angler began jiggling his rod tip to twitch the float and fly along, the jig would be lifted toward the surface and out of the strike zone. More modifications were needed. “I realized I'd need a heavier jig to pull the line through the float, so I switched to a 1/8-ounce model,” Coan says. “Then I removed the plastic insert you find in most slipbobbers and inverted it. This way, the bobber stop won’t just rest against the insert; it catches in the collar of the insert. The final modification I made was to use dental floss instead of the usual threadlike bobber-stop material. Dental floss is finer, works its way through rod guides better, and catches the float better.” The end product is a bobber that catches the bobber stop when the jig sinks so you can precisely set the depth. Once it settles, you can twitch your rod tip in the way that best works the bait to draw strikes. The bobber stop lodges in the collar of the float and won’t let go until you reel the float to the rod tip for the next cast off while fighting a fish. Since the float rests against the jig during the cast, extremely long rods are unnecessary. And long casts are easy with the aerodynamic rig. |
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